To Ireland Day 16

Our journey to Ireland starts with finding the cab rank and purchasing tickets for the Renfe from Plaza de Sevilla (Cádiz train station’s name causes some confusion for a while as we plan how to get out of the city). The train journey is a quick one, retracing our journey into Cádiz and the timetable means we are deposited at the smallish Aeorporto de Jerez XRY (not small as in Port Lincoln but small for an international airport) several hours before our flight.

Train in station at Cádiz

Train at Cádiz

Checkin for Iberia is not open so we make use of the souvenir shopping and the huge upstairs food court for several beers, coffee and Spanish champagne before we go down and hand our cases over to the airline – and then back to remind them to check our luggage through to Dublin as we won’t have time to collect and recheck it in in Madrid. There is more waiting around and the flight leaves late.

There is no such hanging about in Madrid’s Barajas airport. We can tell as we taxi the full length of the award winning Terminal 4 that it is going to be a challenge to make our connection. We succeed thanks to being at the front of the plane thus on the first bus, some good signage, massive travellators and being able to break out of the EU passport queue when we reach the final gate of H.

Unfortunately our luggage is not up to the same challenge and we find out when we land in Dublin that it is still in Madrid and will not make it over until this time tomorrow. Of course this is the flight where we have packed everything and have no emergency supplies in hand luggage between us. All the train travel of the previous week has made us complacent. There is nothing for it but to get on the bus and head to our hotel where Barbara and Alan are already in situ – and luckily have plugs that mean we can recharge devices. Clothes we can do without but not iThings.

Bloomsday paintings on wall in Dublin

Bloomsday wall, Dublin

Dublin is finishing off a sunny Bloomsday and finding room in a traditional Irish pub defeats us, so we settle for traditional Italian and then wander in the long evening light getting our bearings.

Trinity Sunday in Cadiz Day 15

Trinity Sunday starts with a basic picnic breakfast and then back to the bus stop to see if the Cathedral will be open on a Sunday morning? No, it appears not. When we arrive at 10.45am for expected 11.00am Mass a number of people are milling around the massive doors, looking as confused as we were yesterday. We notice a yellow arrow pointing up the back street to the Former Cathedral.

Wall of former Cathedral of Cadiz

Wall of former cathedral Cadiz

Recorded music is playing as we go in and there are about 10 people seated in the nave of a not massive, but substantially decorated cathedral. The gold throughout the sanctuary is impressive and there are at least 7 obvious chapels but it has a relaxed feel and we decide to stay – since it is at least open.

Former cathedral Cadiz

Sanctuary of Former Cathedral Cadiz

At 11am a long line of people wearing mini scapulars (possibly Trinitarians – Trinitarian International Solidarity?) process in and fill the rows in front of us. Mass is sung entirely, and nicely, by a soprano- alto duo hidden behind the pulpit. From 11.30 a wedding party start arriving at the Cathedral so we don’t stay around long afterwards to investigate further.

As we walk back to  Barrica to wait for word from Kevin about our planned trip to San Fernando we notice a door open in the new Cathedral and a Mass about half way through. The pigeon-proofing nets hanging from the ceiling are rather off putting and we are happy things worked out the way they have.

Plaza de Catedral Cadiz

Plaza de Catedral Cadiz

When it becomes clear that Kevin is still sleeping off the last two nights of partying, we walk around the old city happening on plazas and a Sunday market very like Camberwell and then find our way to the sea wall.

Sea wall Cadiz

Getting to the end of Cadiz

Lunch is tapas back at Barrica including the special of kidneys in Pedro Ximenez. The more overcast afternoon encourages us to tackle the walk home along the sea looking down at beaches crowded with umbrellas and people having fun on the limited amount of sand.

Photo of people on beach, Cadiz

Playa

We finally hear from Kevin when he wakes at 6.30 and he takes us to tea at a cafe in the other direction from our previous explorations.

To Cadiz Day 14

A lie-in and lavish hotel breakfast to start the day and yes it appears that Spanish breakfast donuts have holes.

Spanish donuts

Spanish breakfast donuts

Today we are off to see nephew Kevin in sunny Cádiz. This involves a C1 bus from across the road outside the ancient wall. Then a Renfe train from Santa Justa Estación travelling through cornfields, sunflowers, orange groves and even passing the odd eucalypt.

Andalusian countryside from train

Andalusian countryside from train

Feeling so proud of ourselves getting around with no Spanish, we find at ticket inspection that plaza means seat, and we are not in the seat numbers designated on our tickets. The conductor argues our case for us to the gentleman whose seat we have purloined and we stay put. We note the Jerez airport station which will will need on Monday, and I am pleased to have a chance to lean out the train door and take a photo of the beautiful old tiled station at Jerez de la Frontera.

Jerez de la Frontera station

Jerez de la Frontera station

Soon afterwards we cross the narrow land link into Cádiz and are met at the station by Kevin – who has had no sleep and has walked the 30 minutes into town in the warm midday sun.

Photo of Kevin

Kevin in Cádiz

It is great to see him, and deliver the hugs requested from family members. He organises a cab to our hotel and converses confidently with the guy on reception as though he knows what he is doing. Timing works well to FaceTime with all the Adelaide family gathered at Renown Park celebrating Chelsea’s birthday.

Kevin gives us a Cádiz bus lesson and takes us to the favourite Top Coffee haunt of exchange students. We set off walking around the old city’s narrow streets and random plazas. Luckily it wouldn’t take too long in any direction to hit the sea wall, so getting lost – while highly probable – is not likely for too long. While it is impossible to miss Cádiz Cathedral it also seems impossible to get in on this Saturday afternoon, or to find any notices about when it might be open.

Cádiz Cathedral

Cádiz Cathedral

Spurred by Kev’s explanations of how the language works it is interesting to check out the WikiVoyage Spanish phrase book and wonder how many of the Spanish grammar rules we can remember.

After settling in at what becomes our favourite bar in the Plaza de la Catedral we bus back to the hotel for siesta, until we get the knock on our door at 8.30pm to go out to Kevin’s favourite pizza place – which involves more winding narrow streets and marvelling again that the basics of life are so inexpensive in Cádiz.

Wiki notes
In addition to enjoying the phrasebooks in WikiVoyage today I notice the existence of the Wikipedia helpdesk.

Beauvais to Sevilla Day 13

Fishmonger stall at Daumensil market

Les poissonniers

An early start this morning and the market is still setting up as we trundle our cases up the street to get to Porte Maillot and our Ryanair flight to Seville from Beauvais (the Avalon airport of Paris). Despite the horror stories, we find it fairly painless provided you read all the fine print and display boards. It is nice to be on an Irish airline – first cider I have seen for over a week.

According to WikiVoyage Sevilla is Spain’s fourth largest city, on the banks of the “smooth, slow Guadalquivir River.”

An upgrade in accommodation at Tryp Macarena to the junior suite is very roomy after the ‘cosy’ of Paris. Air conditioning is the feature most appreciated at this stage.

Seville Cathedral

Seville Cathedral

The public transport specialist works out the bus system which passes the front door and Seville Cathedral is an easy trip away. It makes much of vying for the top three cathedrals in terms of size, winning in the Gothic division and it is certainly vast. Not sure how it works if full, but it takes quite some time to visit each of the 80 chapels and finally to climb the 34 tessellated ramps to the top of the Giralda tower. Wikipedia tells us that Giralda is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and it is certainly a personal highlight so far.

View from Giralda

View from Giralda

Taking our siesta rather later than the locals, the little streets are quiet and we aren’t tempted by any shopping. At 8.30pm we head across the road and through the city wall [started by Julius Caesar] and one street back find a likely looking bar. Amazing food – tortilla, prawn salad, potato salad, a warm veal and mushroom dish plus much needed beer. And tonight we remember we are barracking for Espagna – who unfortunately get done by the Netherlands while we walk down to visit the Guadalquivir.

Bridge over the Guadalquivir River

Guadalquivir River, Seville

Wiki news
Australian GLAM news is at the top of the global GLAM WIKI round up for May thanks to the activity of
@wittylama   and
@Whiteghost.ink
These are both great examples of user pages. [Note to self – fix mine!]

Jardins de Paris Day 12

Today is designated as above ground day with gardens on top of the list. Père Lachise Cemetery is closest and recommended by travellers before us. After some time failling to find anyone on our list we get to Chopin and an enthusiastic expert adopts us and in short succession we are introduced to:

    • Vivant Denon, 1747-1825, first Director of the Louvre Museum.

      Grave of Vivant Denon

      Vivant Denon

    • Ken Sasaki, 1943-1991 [no Wikipedia article?] a Japanese pianist who according to our cemetery guide wanted to be buried near Chopin, and whose Australian wife made her mark by including a kangaroo playing the piano on his headstone.

      Ken Sasaki's grave

      Ken Sasaki’s grave

    • Armande Pierre Arman, 1928-2005, French-born American artist.

      Armande Pierre Arman's grave

      Armande Pierre Arman’s grave

    • Marcel Marceau, 1923-1997, originally Marcel Mangel who was a French Resistance hero before he became so well known for mime.

      Grave of Marcel Marceau

      Grave of Marcel Marceau

    • Rossini, 1792-1868 has a most impressive monument

      Rossini's grave

      Rossini’s grave

Feeling we have one more garden in us for the day and looking up opinion online to choose between Tuileries and Luxembourg we opt for Palais-Royal. This allows us to walk back through the Louvre and part way through the Tuileries.

Sainte-Chapelle windows

Sainte-Chapelle windows

Sadly the Jane Rutter Australienne in Paris concert tonight at Saint-Chapelle is too late for those who have to pack and check out by 6am so we opt for the earlier Best of Baroque programme. Much queuing and herding for 45 minutes through security and around buildings and upstairs but the windows are stunning indeed, and we get to hear #2, #6 and #47 from the recent ABC Classic FM 100 Baroque and Before.

Notre Dame facade

Notre Dame Paris

On the way back we detour to try for a shiny day (rather than a rainy day) photo of Notre Dame. Time for a last dinner in Paris and we walk the gauntlet of the ‘typical French cuisine’ strip around St Michel and finally chose l’oignon soup and fondue Savoyarde. Who knew that Wikibooks did recipes? Sending best wishes to the School Library Association (SLASA) conference starting today at Adelaide TAFE and remembering arriving from Perth in 2002 and launching into organising the then SASLA conference. Losing track of the state, national conferences and Library Staff days with SLASA since then.

Paris monuments Day 11

With thanks to help from guest blogger for Day 11: birdsey7

This morning we decide to test out the route to the Beauvais airport shuttle bus. This starts badly when we march off down Bv de Reuilly instead of Rue de Reuilly. Luckily we realise before too long so we trace our steps back to Bercy Square and start again. It is about a 20 minute walk to Reuilly-Diderot, then about a half hour ride to Porte Maillot. We follow the signs to the bus, losing sight of them at one point and going up and down stairs before realising we have gone wrong. More retracing of steps and when we finally emerge above ground we find we still have about a five minute walk back to the bus station.

Palais des Congrės, Paris

Palais des Congrės

On the way back we find a much quicker route to the metro directly below the Palais des Congrès. But the popular opinion is that it it will probably be easier to take a cab. Then we take the train to Montmartre (Anvers) and after a quick beer and coffee take the funicular up to Sacré Cœur.

Funicular, Montmartre

Funicular, Montmartre

This is a very big impressive looking pile on top of a steep hill. The church was built in the 1870s so has a rather romantic feel to it with lots of colourful pictures and mosaics, not at all like the old Gothic churches.

Side view of Sacré Coeur, Montmartre

Sacré Coeur Montmartre

After this we walk down some steep steps and narrow cobbled streets and find a cute bar for lunch, Au clair de lune. We manage to find Château rouge metro station, which is immensely busy. In the confusion we get on the down train instead of the up train, but this proves to be a good thing because it is the right line to go straight to the Champs-Élysées. We emerge at George V station into a mass of tourists and traffic. We have a quick look at the Arc (which was decorated with scaffolding, like nearly every other landmark we’ve looked at on this trip so far), then scurry back into the underground at Charles de Gaulle Étoile.

Eiffel Tower from train

Eiffel Tower from train

Soon we are over the river at Ber-Hakeim with several hundred others. We walk with the crowds to the bottom of the Eiffel Tower, marvel at its size and then walk back to the station, onto a rattly old train and back to our old familiar Dugommier.

Paris Day 10

Venturing out into the rain soaked street after a hotel breakfast we realise the metal frame strutures we saw last night are market stalls – right outside our gate. Still very grey but while the rain holds off we head towards the river – finding it at Pont de Tolbiac.

The Seine from Pont de Talbiac

The Seine from Pont de Talbiac

A very overcast walk along the Seine – so distracted by trains moving across Pont d’Austerlitz that we don’t realise the Bibliotheque Nationalé de France is on the bank above us until we are at Gare d’Austerlitz.

Wollemi pine at Jardin des Plantes

Wollemi pine at Jardin des Plantes

It is drizzling on approach to the Jardin des Plantes but by the time we are well inside it turns into full blown rain from which the avenues of trees do little to protect us.

Already dampened we move onto #2 on the to-do list and queue (for the first time) at Notre Dame. Perhaps the crowds are smaller than usual thanks to the clouds. It is very dark inside.

Umbrellas at Notre Dame

Umbrellas at Notre Dame

Stained glass window, Church of St Severin, Paris

Church of St Severin, Paris

A beautiful déjeuner in a cafe features food of the Basque region then we find our way back to a metro – underground being preferable to above ground this afternoon. We come across St Severin’s  – a welcome shelter and interesting windows and another war memorial.

There is no article in English Wikipedia for Séverin of Paris, “a devout hermit, who lived on the banks of the River Seine during the first half of the fifth century.”

Some hours spent drying off in the bar back at the hotel, then off to a highly efficient laundromat – conveniently located next to an eccentric corner bar.

Wiki news
Some education related news on the Wikimedia lists today:

  • Israel’s Mininstry of Education agrees on a new initiative to incorporate education about Wikipedia in its school curriculum.
  • Serbia Wikimedia reports that their Ministry “has prescribed that from September 2014 all students of the second year of secondary school curriculum must study wiki tools.” The Institute for the Improvement of Knowledge and Education has included a course on Wikipedia in its catalog of programs of continuous professional development of teachers, professors and other school personnel.”

TGV to storms in Paris Day 9

Limmat, Zurich

Limmat, Zurich

Wake up to a warm day in Zurich, and find a wifi cafe with croissant, espresso and amazing homemade limonade with basil and mint, before walking along the Limmat to the last bridge.

Grossmünster, Zurich

Grossmünster, Zurich

WikiVoyage  is every useful in identifying the places we are seeing. So far there has been limited English labelling of significant buildings so we are grateful for the wiki articles on key cities. The churches (and their clocks) we photograph turn out to be:

Fraumünster, Zurich

Fraumünster, Zurich

  • Fraumünster – named not for Our Lady but because it is built on the remains of a former abbey for aristocratical women founded in 853. Now a Swiss Reformed Church.

After lunch it is time for our 4 hour TGV experience to Paris Gare de Lyon via Basel and Dijon, arriving in Paris with the late afternoon rush. It is great to have expert guidance on Le Metro to get us to a station near Bercy le Quartier.

A picnic of baguette, charcuterie, cheese and a fine drop of premier cru outside in the garden leading into a very stormy and disturbed night.

Back home it is a public holiday and Queen’s birthday honours and thanks are due to those responsible for the compilation of music honours. Still waiting for the equivalent education and library related lists.

Today, as well as a public holiday, we missed the end of the ABC Classic 100  Baroque countdown.

Pfingsten Day 8

There is something poetic about being at Mass conducted in an unfamiliar tongue on Whitsunday or Pentecost.

Pfingsten sign

Pfingsten

(Question to English Wikipedia: why two articles for the same celebration? Answer of a sort on the Talk page for Whitsun).

Der Heilege Geißt‘ is at least a frequent recognisable phrase. The homily at Franziskaner Kirche at 9am has a visual aid involving a Kommunikation device with batterie and cable which makes some sense. At the 10am Festival Mass at the Dom the Archbishop of Salzburg’s homily gets many laughs and applause from the massive congregation including all ages attending from the Fest der Jugend Pfingsten rally seated on every available step or tile – but I make no sense of it.

Vaulting at Franziskaner Kirche

Franziskaner Kirche

Luckily the music is perfectly recognisable. A full orchestral version of Haydn’s Nelson Messe is wonderful at Franziskaner Kirche and even better when I catch the end of it again at the Abbey later in the morning.

Poster of music for. Pfingsten 2014

Pfingsten 2014 music list Salzburg

No Mozart at the Dom either but the Taizé Veni Sancte Spiritus works beautifully as the gradual with what was possibly a 10,000-strong congregation. Screens and microphones and speakers are essential to see or hear anything, and my suitcase wouldn’t be out of place with the prams, wheelchairs and picnic rugs on every inch of the floor and steps however I am very appreciative of my personal porters who I meet at Hbf for our trip to Zurich, via Innsbruck.

A lovely journey along the river most of the way with alps towering above us. On arrival in Zurich it is a climb from Zurich Hauptbahnhof to Weinbergstraße to refresh and then downhill again to find a classic Italian restaurant for a late dinner.

Zurich tram

Zurich tram

Wiki notes
Wikimedia Commons has a set of images categorised as Holy Spirit.

The Sound of Salzburg Day 7

Day 7 starts with a walk into Café Bazar on the river for quick breakfast and to collect tickets to our 11am concert – part of the Salzburg Whitsun Festival: Rossinissimo.

Mozart Stiftung, Salzburg

Mozart Stiftung, Salzburg

Is it sacrilegious to go to a concert at Stiftung Mozarteum without any Mozart on the programme?

Regardless, we enjoy an impressive performance of Bach, Rossini, Liszt and Schubert from David Fray, dynamic French pianist. A very pleasant interval is spent in the garden sipping champagne in the sunshine.

Mozart Stiftung interior

Mozart Stiftung interior

Over the bridge to Old Salzburg and through the Markt along the River Salzach with eis limone in hand to cool down on this 29 degree day. We continue exploring the various churches – lucking out at the Franziskanerkirche where a brass quartet and organist are rehearsing for the afternoon’s wedding.

Organ Franzischer Kirche, Salzburg

Organ Franzischer Kirche, Salzburg

Many people are getting about in beautiful traditional wear and one group sitting beside us appear to be in Austrogoth gear – all black traditional dress with full arm tatts. We manage to avoid most Sound of Music hype but rendezvous late afternoon at St Peter’s Abbey to pay our homage to Mozart courtesy of two of his piano sonaten played by a Russian student.

Dinner of steak, Spargl, sour kirsch cream and schnapps and a stopover finale at our favourite and local Fuxn Biergarten ends a special day in Salzburg.

Spargel

Spargel at Hotel Sacher Salzburg

Wiki notes
There is a Salzburgwiki.